From Makassar, all day 9 hur trip to Rantepoa (Tana Toraja) - arrived at Tara Tonaja 5 ish thinking this was the name of the town but had to travel to Rantepoa another 3 hurs, I had not realised.

Went to the reception of the guesthuse to sign-in, pushy hotel guide, hadnt had a chance to shower, get changed or get a drink and he starts selling me a day tour for villages and traditional funeral ceremonies. Next morning another one winges about not having a job and that I have to help him, I hadnt slept so well and not happy at all. I was pretty annoyed and ignored them for the rest of my stay. They are not used to longer stayers, lots of people just visit for a day from Makassar to see a funeral and go back.

7 nights Rantepoa
one trek alone and 2 with Jo and RObbie,  long term travelling couple.One of the treks included a nice village with typical rice barns and lots of cave and hanging graves. The bodies are left to rot while hanging in a coffin from the face of the rock. When the  coffin rots the whole thing collapses below , they gather and stack up the skeleton pieces in piles, unusual practice I guess. Jo was unhappy with me posing with a skull and a long limb bone! Some times caves or large concrete containers are used by the whole family, for dead bodies ofcourse!

As we arrive I get chatting to a group of bikers visiting from Makassar, they seem well kitted up. I become a celebrity as the foreigner and hundreds of photos with various individuals and groups are taken. I try to swop my sun hat for a leather bandana worn by one biker, unsuccessfully.


Have had some foot problems and had to pad inside the shoes myself, difficult to buy good quality shoes or any kind of insoles here, cheap shoes everywhere. This simple procedure sorts out some pain I have had for days.

I change room once to get away from a dutch couple next door with 3 children including a toddler who cries most of the time. Unfortunately my new neighbours are Inonesian and get up and sit outside their rooms from 6.20 a.m. smoking and chatting till they are off around 8. Luckily they leave the second night. I have a 3/4 lenght bath tub here and I try to repair the plug and manage to take couple of hot baths. the town is quite boring, no street lights and little happening except for the karaoke near the guesthouse in full flow till the early hours.

day of the 8th in the Morning, earliest I have been down for breakfast (other than when I went trekking with Jo and Robbie, usually when I come down there is a single place left laid out for me) as I am leaving to Pendolo. Robbie tells me there is a nice lake there. The bus due to 8 leaves at nine and it is a local bus (means uncomfortable).